A shrimp curry dish at Eggs & Thai Cafe in Dedham.
Boston Globe staff photo by John Tlumacki.
The Boston Globe
By Johanna Seltz
Globe Correspondent November 04, 2015
IN THE KITCHEN Petecharat Sirigunrat has wanted to own a restaurant since she helped in her mother’s restaurant in Bangkok. She worked in the business when she came to the United States – at the King and I on Charles Street in Boston, and more recently at Bamboo in Brighton – knowing that “the final destination is you have to be owner.”
She searched Greater Boston and landed in Dedham Square, opening Eggs & Thai Café at the end of the summer in a tiny basement space, in what used to be a breakfast place known for its giant pancakes and homemade hash.
“I’m comfortable with this town, not too crowded, not too quiet. This is a good size for me,” said Sirigunrat, who lives in Brighton. “The people are very friendly.”
THE LOCALE Steep steps lead down to Eggs & Thai Café, which is nestled on the side of a building halfway between the main business section of Dedham Square and the county offices and courthouses. The décor is cheery: warm orange walls, scattered paintings, elephant figurines, and brightly patterned curtains looking out at street level. The restaurant seats about 55 at granite-topped tables and a small bar overlooking the kitchen.
ON THE MENU Sirigunrat said she’s trying to create a family-style restaurant with “authentic Thai” cuisine. “We keep [the] level of sour and salty a good combination, not too sweet,” she said. Many of the recipes are from her family, she said, and she’s particularly proud of the spicy chili sauce.
The menu is huge, pages of choices that include standard selections found in many Greater Boston Thai restaurants, as well as some more unusual options.
Appetizers, for example, range from the usual chicken satay, shumai, and fresh or crispy rolls, to the more exotic shredded papaya salad and chive dumplings.
We choose the Thai sausages ($6.50) and are quite pleased with the big plate of sizzling grilled pork sausage slices that arrive served on lettuce and accompanied by ginger, peanuts, and a head-clearing spicy dipping sauce. When we ask the helpful young waiter what is in the sausage, he tells us that lime leaf adds the distinctive flavor.
The coconut soup ($4) is creamy and hot, studded with chunks of chicken and mushrooms, redolent of lime and cilantro, and, as promised, not too sweet.
A massaman chicken curry ($8.25) is a heaping plateful, piping hot and served with rice. The chicken is tender and plentiful, the sauce creamy with a hint of heat, the potatoes and carrots well-cooked.
Other items that stand out from the menu are meal-sized noodle soups and what Sirigunrat said is a customer favorite – the chili fish, a crispy filet topped with tamarind chili sauce. There also are several salmon entrees and a chili duck that we will go back and try.
Sirigunrat said she ultimately plans to serve an American and Thai breakfast at Eggs & Thai Café and has just finished a baking course to get ready. She is waiting, she said, until her partner returns from Thailand, where she unexpectedly had to go for a family emergency shortly before the restaurant opened.
Until then, Egg & Thai Café is open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday.
“We go step by step, to make sure the customers enjoy our food and come back,” Sirigunrat said.
Eggs & Thai Café, 2 King’s Court, Dedham Square, 781-326-2538, www.eggandthai.com.
Johanna Seltz can be reached at email@example.com.
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